So it is my turn to start my very own ”Out of Africa”.
Turkish Airlines brought me safely to Nairobi, with only half an hour delay and seefood served to me on both legs of the journey. I arrived in Kenyatta Airport around 2am and my very first encounter was an airport full of people – asleep! Everywhere people where sleeping, in seats, on the benches or just wherever they found enough space to lay down comfortably. Two old women were even asleep in those harsh airport wheel chairs.
As I am a frequent flyer, I was among the first to leave the aircraft and as a result the first to look for immigration and luggage claims. The sign post pointed both to the left and the right, not giving any clear indication on where to go, so I took a left – followed the heart – and arrived straight to immigration. I paid 25 dollar for my 90 days tourist visa ( and swore that I should’ve brought the CHF that I left back home, as they are obviously tradable in Kenya...)
Customs at this very airport consist of “dudes”, in proper sense of the word, in raincoats, with walkie-talkies. They stopped a Rastafarian and I passed unnoticed through. For a moment I was not too sure on how to explain that my suitcase was filled to the rim with all the remedies my stepmother supplied me against all sorts of ills that might strike me while I am here...
Fred, a driver from the embassy was waiting for me with a small sign with my name on and it wasn’t until he flipped a card with the Norwegian flag on I figured that he was my man. A pretty sizable guy, Fred had an impressive handshake and not surprisingly trew my suitcase into the back of his jeep as we headed for Taj Heights. Personally I was sorry for keeping Fred up until what the Kenyans would call “ very early”, but Fred was pleased to tell me that “ with no traffic my apartment was only less than 20 minutes away”. With traffic, and what is normally the case between 6pm and 9 pm, this same journey might last for 3 hours.
Fred was a very comfortable driver with opinions about most things, he was in much better shape than me to talk about Kenyan climate and politics but I did catch a few things on the ride. The city centre of Nairobi consists of paved three-lane roads and roundabout, through which Fred and I were flying...until we crossed onto Sports Road, where I happen to live now. Sports Road would not qualify as a road in Western terms, it is some sort of a pile of holes and stones and no wonder the Kenyans are good at driving rallies! Fred, he’s one of those. With a steady hand, we shook it up to the gate at the appartment complex where I live. We were met by two dudes in raincoats with a suspicious eye, but Fred assured me that he’d told them we were arriving very late and they exchanged a few words in Swahili.
The apartment is located on 2nd floor in a relative new building and it is huge! Fred insisted on carrying my suitcase into the flat so that he would see that I was sound and safe.
My room is quite small with a bed that’s quite short but nice. I am surprised though, despite the fact that there is a maid included in the rent the level of cleanliness didn’t impress me but the sheets were clean and I could head straight to bed, ready for my first night in Africa. ( The maid didn't know I was coming and has since cleaned...)
The night passed quickly but a dog that barks a lot waked me up! I got up trying to sort out my mobile phone that only wants to work occasionally, plugged in my chargers and tried to turn on the light in bathroom and the toilet before I met Christa in the hallway saying “ In guess you haven’t noticed, there is a blackout”. And effectively, I didn’ t figure that was the issue! So it is true, my first morning in Nairobi and no electricity!
Sigurd, my welcome committee had prepared a little note for me that Fred handed to me last night saying that they’d come to pick me up at 2pm at my place. I was ready at 2, but the Norwegians had got lost on their way and was somewhat delayed.
Sigurd, his partner Elise and Harald, the man that I will work primarily with the next 6 months picked me up in a jeep, the car of choice in Nairobi even though it is a city and we headed for the city centre. Sigurd proved to be an excellent guide and showed us the Central Park where Nairobians go for a Sunday stroll, or potentially horse ride, pedal boat trip and the occasional camel ride ( I resisted today).
Uhuru park was next and we passed the place where the election campaign was bombed earlier this spring, an impressing earthen amphitheatre on our way to the Kenyatta Conference Centre, Nairobi second tallest building. An impressive 29 story building (the lift only brought us to the 27th floor, yet it was designed by a Norwegian architect ), with a stunning view of Nairobi and the sourroundings from the top, that actually is a landing spot for helicopters. I forgot to take any pictures but I am sure we’ll get the chance to get there again, maybe even on an even brighter day!
Next Sigurd brougt us to Westgate, a huge Israeli owned shopping centre where we had dinner at Artscaffe, the local hotspot for Mzungus and guided us through Nakumatt, a huge department store that reminded a lot about Carrefour. The shop didn’t left much to be desired, it had almost everything and I must admit that the price level was quite European. At least, I have some food for the coming few days to get me through in the beginning!
So my first 24 hours in Africa have been pretty eventful. The weather was nice and warm for the most part but it gets chilly after dark. What struck me the most is the sweet smell of Africa, I am looking forward to explore more of that!
